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Friday, May 16, 2008


Serving Eau Claire, WI and the Chippewa Valley Since 1881

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Best of the wurst

Mike's Meat Shop praised for making ‘superb sausage'

June 12,2007

If You Go

Name: Mike's Old Fashion Meat Shop.
Address: 2238 Heimstead Road, Eau Claire (behind Chuck's on Clairemont).
Established in Eau Claire:
February 2005.
Formerly: Mike's Star Market, Elk Mound, established in 1990.
Owner-operator: Mike Maier.
Employees: Dawne Hanson, Janet Sorenson, Justin Maier and Megan Maier.
Hours: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday.
Parking: In lot on site.
Prices: Brats made with pork are $3.19 per pound. Quantity discounts are provided.
Web site: www.mikestarmarket.com.
Phone: 552-3842.
Extras: Mike also makes beer brats, garlic and onion brats, jalapeño brats, cheese brats, jalapeño and cheese brats, sauerkraut and onion brats, 'steak' brats, 'taco' brats, chili brats, apple brats, bacon and Cheddar brats, precooked brats and smoked brats.
Orders: Maier asks two days' advance notice for large or special orders.


We're always searching for a better brat.

We mean standard Wisconsin bratwurst made on the German model. Just pork, salt and traditional seasonings stuffed into natural casings and sold 'fresh' — i.e., uncooked.

We nearly always prefer sausage crafted in small batches by local butchers.

When we find a new contender for 'best of the wurst,' we go a little bratwurst batty, tasting and testing and debating.

A case in point: Mike Maier's 'regular' bratwurst.

Since we first tried them at the end of April, we've served dozens of Maier's standard brats to acquaintances and friends.

Our guests' conclusions echoed our own: This is one superb sausage. Our tasting notes include: 'Wonderfully moist and subtly spiced.' 'Rich, clean pork taste.' 'White pepper predominant, with red pepper warmth.' 'Marjoram, possibly.' 'Allspice? Cloves?'

In our telephone interview, Maier didn't reveal his secret ingredients, but he did lay down this law: 'Good sausage begins with good meat.'

He also noted that he doesn't use the sweeteners and MSG typically found in factory-made bratwurst.

He does add standard antioxidants such as BHA and citric acid but would be happy to make your bratwurst without them.

Cooking notes: Do everything possible to keep moisture in the meat. Never prick brats or poke them with a fork; use tongs or gloved fingers to move them around.

Sauté chopped onions in butter until glassy. Add Leinie's Original; bring to a boil. Turn heat to medium-low, add brats, then simmer gently for exactly 20 minutes.

If grilling immediately, let brats steep in the beer until coals are ready. If grilling later, cool brats in beer on a rimmed baking sheet, turning occasionally, then refrigerate together until needed.

Grill slowly over indirect or medium-low heat for 20 to 30 minutes or until the skin is coppery brown and crisp. If brats start to split or spit, move them farther from the coals or lower your heat.

Main Course, the Leader-Telegram's restaurant review column, runs the fourth Sunday of the month. Diners' Notebook, a sampling of favorite restaurant offerings, runs the second Tuesday of the month.

 




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