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Wholesome, yeasty and only modestly sweet, these are the Midwest classics that your mother or your grandmother made — if you were born lucky. Happily, these rolls have little in common with the excessively rich and caloric dough bombs produced by a certain national chain. Ordered warmed, with a cup of good coffee or a glass of cold milk, they make a fine and nearly guilt-free breakfast or midmorning snack. The cinnamon roll is simplest: the standard Bake and Brew sweet-roll dough daubed with a butter-margarine mix and dusted with cinnamon. Ask that the powdered-sugar frosting, which can come slathered on, be served on the side; you’ll need only a small fraction of what’s provided. Jeff’s favorite, the sticky bun, elevates the basic cinnamon roll by baking it in a clear, lightly thickened sauce of butter and caramelized brown sugar. Thanks to the sauce, the sticky bun stays moister than the cinnamon roll and has layers of interesting flavors. The salty whipped dairy spread served alongside offers impressive counterpoints in taste and temperature. But a good salted Wisconsin butter, grade AA, would be far better. (If you’re allergic to nuts, beware: The sticky buns often share pans with the pecan rolls and sometimes are served with errant nut bits sticking to their sides.) Audrey’s favorite, the pecan roll, elevates the sticky bun by generously strewing on fresh pecans, coarsely chopped, before baking. The nuts emerge from the oven lightly glazed with the sugary caramel sauce and still crunchy, like the best pralines. Try to get to Bake and Brew before 10 a.m. The sticky buns and pecan rolls often sell out by then. We understand why. |
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